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Dear Steve

Practical classics magazine I think will be right up your street, it is like reading Als words but with step by step colour pictures, for all the classic cars you can think of. In the same edition as Malcolm's Bond was, there is also an autopsy of the Chevrolet Corvair engine, Fixing dodgy electrical connections, Tracking down and repairing oil leaks, setting and using a wheel machine to form curved body panels, plus 12 video step by step course. At 179 pages a worthy read
You can subscribe or get back issues by going to or call +441858 438884
Chris Thomas
Some cars have a driving position biased to the top of the screen. Personally I do not like that. Its a reason I never campaigned a Trabbi, or a Multipla, for instance. Other folk seem to quite like it. To be honest I do not recall having this problem in the Frisky, but I am not tall. For its size the Frisky has space in it. My annoyance, I think, was the intrusion of the engine to the rear, into the cockpit / back of the seat. Again I have not driven the seemingly better Sport, four wheel version. This might be better all round. It has to be said that some three wheeled versions of the close coupled 4 wheelers are not as good. It was a trade of for lower tax, and better sales. 
I'd like to see the repair technique up close as well as the whole article.
Can anyone figure out how to post a link?
Who knows, I might need to know this some day if I have a mishap with my Alloy bodied AC Petite.

Unfortunately I did neglect my photographic journey at this stage of the restoration. The first repair patch I made me took a couple of weeks to make, so by the time I'd burnt through and distorted that one and then done the same thing with the second, I was too close to giving up entirely to worry about photographs. This is the third and final patch in situ. As well as curving top to bottom and having a flange on the bottom and that other curved flange at the front, it also has a larger radius at the rear than it does at the front. I did manage to borrow a metal shrinker/stretcher to help make the front flange after my second go, but an English wheel would have cut out a lot of the metal bashing.

The patch is held in place by about 50 or so 1/8" dia countersunk rivets spaced according to recommendations I found at the time (see for example). The adhesive I used was Bondloc B3298. The leading edge of the original bodywork was also feathered so that the step between old and new material was the minimum I could make it. This is a highly stressed part of the car and the damage on mine had been made worse because of a broken off reinforcing section that fits behind this corner.


So you have to bend your knees a little more, slide your butt a little foreard, and hunker down a bit to drive with the hood down?
If not, how do you manage with a significantly lesser degree of head space than that you are seen to be enjoying in your video?
Hi Steven
I am 6'3" and I can fit with the hood up. Just easier for Chris and myself to get in with the hood down.
If you decide to visit the Los Angeles area before returning home, I could give you a few interesting rides around my barnland.
Additionally, for contrast, I could lend you a most comfortable Cadillac to tour around  in for a few days.
However in the case of a MiniComtesse ride - you would be literally on your own.

Both of you appear to be travelling with our windshield's uppermost border at about smile level.
Does that mean that it is undriveble for people of your stature with the hood up?
Just exactly how tall are you guys?
RUMCar Mart / Isetta gearbox for sale
« Last Post by Bob Purton on April 29, 2016, 02:06:25 PM »
I have a spare Isetta gearbox I'm selling on. I kept this one as a spare when I had the car as the clutch shaft splines are in such good condition. If you know about Isetta's you will know that when these wear a step in them you start to get clutch engage/disengage problems. If you are interested get in touch.
Unusual Microcar Discussion / Re: FIVE PAGES in Practical Classics, May 2016
« Last Post by Nimrod Cabin on April 29, 2016, 01:15:58 PM »
Thanks Dave. In case it's not clear from the article, the repair section next to the bulkhead is held by countersunk solid aluminium rivets with a thin coating of epoxy adhesive underneath. The only place I've used pop-rivets on the car is to replace them where they were used originally - where the front of the hood is attached to the frame above the windscreen and where the bottom of the seat back panel attaches to the top of the floor strengthener.
As well as the practical difficulties in welding curved bits of thin aluminium without distortion or blow through, the other thing that eventually convinced me that I was approaching the bulkhead repair from the wrong angle was learning that the process itself of welding aluminium will usually compromise the strength of the material. Fitting a repair section to bit of curved steel is a piece of cake in comparison to doing it in aluminium with amateur equipment.

Well done Malcolm, we went to Sheffield Park station on drive it day and I saw PC on the shelf, very good article, bean tins indeed!!??
Unusual Microcar Discussion / Re: Mystery box
« Last Post by steven mandell on April 28, 2016, 11:23:01 PM »
As al says almost identical to the Lucas ones and can use the same  bezels , i do have some of them steven which you are welcome to at no charge - bezels that is
Thanks Richard, I'll have a thorough look through the box of spare this weekend to see if I'll need them.
P.S. That is not my mystery box #2. ::)
Unusual Microcar Discussion / Re: Mystery box
« Last Post by Big Al on April 28, 2016, 04:24:22 PM »
Same meticulous engineer owner for 50 years, and only 10,500 miles on the clock.

My Bond has the same owner for 51 years and hasn't changed owner .....

But have you got 10,500 on the clock? More like 105,000 plus the multiple of your choice. (I think Bonds tend to go further than Berks, don't they?)
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